While you advance your stitching past the fundamentals, making a shirt or shirt gown could make you’re feeling like a stitching
! And there is one thing significantly satisfying in regards to the intricate steps concerned in crafting the proper shirt collar. Positive, it could be one of many fiddlier elements of constructing your individual garments, however it’s additionally tremendous rewarding to placed on that collar and know that
Earlier than we get caught into the guidelines, let’s get our heads round which items of the collar are which, and what path they’re minimize and whether or not they’re interfaced in our stitching patterns:
- High collar = the surface a part of the collar that is on view once you put on it. Reduce on the straight grain and interfaced to present it construction.
- Underneath collar = the within a part of the collar that is folded beneath once you put on it. Reduce on the bias grain so it sits properly round your neck, and never interfaced (in our patterns no less than – it may be interfaced generally).
- Outer collar stand = band that sits beneath the collar, and which is seen from the surface. Reduce on the straight grain, and interfaced for construction.
- Internal collar stand = inside this band which sits in opposition to your neck. Reduce on the bias grain so it curves properly round your neck, and never interfaced.
Received it? Okay! Now onto my ideas…
1) Trim the beneath collar and interior stand to cover the seams
While you’ve been to all the difficulty to stitch your individual shirt, the very last thing you need is the collar seams to be seen once you put on your completed creation.
To cease them peeping out, begin by trimming a teensy bit off the quick ends and lengthy outer fringe of the beneath collar, in addition to the curved ends of the interior collar stand (bear in mind – these are the uninterfaced, bias-cut ones). Trim by 2mm (1/16in), tapering to 0mm at corners. It will encourage the seams to roll in direction of the underside.
While you pin the highest collar to the beneath collar and the outer stand to the interior stand, simply you should definitely convey the uncooked edges collectively to make your trimming worthwhile, reasonably than laying them flat in opposition to one another.
2) Mark turning factors on the highest collar
That can assist you get the 2 pointed corners of your collar trying symmetrical, it may be useful to mark pivot factors on the unsuitable facet of the highest collar after you’ve got interfaced it. This manner you recognize the place to cease stitching one edge – with the needle down by the pivot level – and pivot the material to stitch the following edge.
We embody these markings on our Lyra and Rosa patterns to make this tremendous straightforward for you 🙂 In the event you’re utilizing a unique sample that does not embody these markings, measure 15mm (5/8in) – or regardless of the sample’s seam allowance is – from every edge at one nook and mark the pivot level the place these markings intersect. Repeat with the opposite nook.
Whereas we’re with regards to interfacing, it is a good suggestion to stitch with the interfaced layer face up in your machine to stabilise the layers as they undergo the feed canine. That is significantly vital because the underside layers are bias minimize, so they’re vulnerable to stretching out.
3) Take one sew throughout the corners
There are just a few totally different approaches to getting a pointy level on a nook with an angle lower than 90 levels. The strategy I used to be taught on an expert stitching methods course on the London Faculty of Trend is as follows…
While you attain the pivot level, use the handwheel or needle up/down button to stitch one single sew throughout this level, stitching diagonally in direction of the following seam – see the picture above It could sound counterintuitive, because it seems like your nook goes to finish up extra blunt than pointy, however what you are doing is giving the seam allowances one thing to show in opposition to once you flip the collar out, so they do not simply bunch up into a multitude.
4) Fold – don’t snip – the nook
Chances are you’ll be used to snipping diagonally throughout seam allowance corners to scale back bulk. Nevertheless, when stitching light- to medium-weight materials, it is generally higher to fold the corners reasonably than snipping them – significantly on sharp corners like these ones. Folding will create a robust nook that is a lot much less prone to kind holes.
An exception can be thicker materials like corduroy which will likely be too cumbersome in case you do not trim the corners.
Do trim the seam allowances parallel to the stitching traces first, grading one layer narrower than the opposite to scale back bulk. Fold the nook straight down over the sew you created within the earlier tip – ideally with the interfaced layer on high so as to add some further construction to the seam traces. Holding this nook down, rigorously fold the seam allowances parallel to every stitched edge over it. Flip the corners proper facet out, then use some extent turner and/or a pin to softly ease out the material right into a neat level.
As soon as you’ve got stitched the collar, examine one nook with the opposite and verify they appear symmetrical. If you wish to regulate one facet, you’ll be able to unpick and resew just a few stitches. Additionally be sure to’re pulling out the corners properly – take a little bit of time with a pin to softly ease out the material into neat factors.
An vital caveat on this tip – how symmetrical you need to get the collar is after all as much as you! Nobody goes to name the the stitching police in case your collar seems slightly wonky 😉 The vital factor is that you simply made it your self. Keep in mind that drapier materials like viscose are going to flop a bit anyway once you put on them, so you may get away with a little bit of asymmetry right here…
6) Edgestitch if wanted
As soon as you’ve got turned your collar out and given it an excellent press, rolling the seam traces barely to the underside, in case your material presses properly, you’ll be able to depart the collar as is. But when your material is not behaving itself and the seam traces try to peep out, you might need to edgestitch round it to carry the seams in place.
Edgestitching merely means toptitching near the sting. From the best facet, rigorously sew 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from every stitched seam of the collar.
7) Mark the stitching line on stand curves
The half I personally discover fiddliest of stitching a collar is stitching symmetrical curves on every finish of the collar stand. These curves are fairly tight, so aren’t the best to navigate precisely. So I discover it actually useful to mark the stitching line on the curved ends earlier than stitching, to behave as a information.
You need to use a tape measure for this – or minimize a teeny strip of card and mark the seam allowance on it, 15mm (5/8in) from one finish, after which use this as a extra correct (because it’s narrower) tape measure. On the (interfaced) unsuitable facet of the outer collar stand, go across the curved ends holding the 15mm (5/8in) measurement parallel to the uncooked edge, marking the curved stitching line with chalk pencil or a washable pen.
8) Trim – don’t notch – the curves
As soon as you’ve got stitched the higher and decrease stand collectively, reasonably than notching triangles into the stand curves, trim the seam allowances near the seam line.
9) Easy out the curves earlier than urgent
It is price taking a little bit of time to get the curved ends of the stand trying related to one another – firstly by evaluating them to one another after stitching, and later as soon as you’ve got turned them proper facet out.
I like to make use of a blunt butter knife to clean out the within of the seams into good curves earlier than giving them an excellent steamy press. (And once more, you may need to roll the seam barely to the underside so it isn’t seen from the surface of the garment.)
10) Be a part of the stand to the neckline in two levels
When stitching the stand to the bodice neckline, it may be difficult to get the needle lined up with the beginning of the seam, with out by chance shifting the rigorously pinned stand out of alignment with the shirt opening, because the again of the presser foot will get in the best way.
So these are my high ten ideas for stitching a neat shirt collar. I hope you’ve got discovered this put up useful. It could sound like quite a lot of issues to recollect at first, however as soon as you’ve got put them into apply you might properly discover them second nature. In any case, the vital factor is to not stress (it is solely stitching!), benefit from the course of and really feel pleased with what you’ve got made.
In the event you do make the Lyra or Rosa patterns, we might like to see, so please share with us on Instagram @TillyButtons #SewingLyra or #SewingRosa.
Writer: Tilly Walnes
Pictures: Jane Looker and Fanni Williams